Youth Skills Workshop

September 9th, 2014

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With a total of 18 youth from five different climbing groups (including the Geckos, the After School Programs at West Kings and NKEC, the Rock Court, and the Rock Divas), six coaches, and 32 newly set routes, the launch of a prototype Youth Bouldering Skills and Technique Workshop on June 1st at the West Kings District High was extremely successful!

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Unlike previous – nonetheless amazing – youth bouldering competitions, the main focus of the workshop was designed to build upon foundational climbing skills and create a sense of community between the different climbing groups.  This goal was achieved above expectation as kids from all gyms interacted throughout the workshop, helping each other unlock the beta for new problems.

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It was fantastic to see kids who had been climbing less than a month pairing up to work on problems with more experienced climbers and vise versa, offering advice, challenging themselves, and together learning new techniques.  Coaches stepped up to demonstrate and teach different body movements which provided the key to completing (as they saw it) ‘impossibly difficult’ problems.   As the session came to a close, the feedback was in resounding agreement for more workshops – along with continued competitions – and more time to climb!

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A gigantic shout out goes to Chris, Heather B., Heather R., Phill, Adam and Bekah, as well as all the coaches at the different gyms, who’ve put time and effort into engaging these youth in bouldering.  Also, a special thanks to the parents and young climbers for making it possible to continue doing what we love.  It is fantastic to see these programs flourishing with excited youth showing up to learn, pumped to crank hard!

Hunting season in Nova Scotia

September 9th, 2014

Hunting season this year began on September 8th and continues until March 31 2015, so remember:

WEAR ORANGE WHEN YOU GO INTO THE WOODS

Hunting is not officially allowed on Sundays, but we’ve definitely heard gunshots all week long this time of year in the past so play it safe.

Sometimes an orange helmet isn't enough

Sometimes an orange helmet isn’t enough

Your dog also needs orange (and lots of it) if she’s going to come climbing with you.

Nova Scotia 2014/15 Hunting & Trapping Season Summary

Deer: Sept 8, 2014 – December 13 (General firearm hunt from October 31 – December 6)

Bear: Sept 9 – Dec 6

Moose: Sept 29 – December 11 (Cape Breton only)

Furbearers: Nov 1 – March 31, 2015

Snowshoe hare: Nov 1 – Feb 28

Grouse: Oct 1 – Dec 31

Pheasant: Oct 1 – Dec 15

Source – http://www.gov.ns.ca/natr/hunt/pdf/SeasonDates.pdf

Boulderfest 2014 Recap

September 2nd, 2014

Dover Island saw another successful Boulderfest this year, completing the negative trifecta of a successful event: no rain, no accidents and no overflowing porta-potties (thanks Rob). Once again we had a mix of local and extra-provincial climbers and a LOT of first timers, including a handful of youngsters that showed all the crusty old folks how to get it done.

A big thanks goes out to our volunteers, especially Buck North, Miles and those two guys who carried the kegs from the boat to the kitchen. We’d like to send an electronic round of applause out to Rod and Giz for ferrying everyone back and forth all weekend. Finally, our sponsors killed it again with great prizes and support; Boulderfest wouldn’t be the great event it is without them so thanks again to:

  • The Trail Shop
  • Propeller
  • Ground Zero
  • Evolv

We also had the lovely and talented Katrina Pyne on hand to shoot some footage for a short film we’ll be showing everyone in the next few months. You can check out more of her work here: http://katrinapyne.com/

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Jeff Zwicker getting some air at the warmup wall

If you have any feedback or suggestions on how to make the event better (or stuff you really liked) you can reach us at climbnovascotia@gmail.com. Otherwise, see ya’ll next year!

Clean and Climb – Operation Mainface

July 16th, 2014

Climb Nova Scotia’s annual Clean and Climb took place at Mainface this year. Mainface, our largest and tallest crag, had fallen back to nature over the last few years as young whippersnapper crags like GSpot, Sorrows End and Columbus Wall started getting more attention. Like all fads, however, what’s old is new again and Mainface is what’s hot for 2014.

Our dedicated team of almost 20 volunteers led the charge with two days of scrubbing, shovelling, chain sawing and trundling. We were able to clear an accumulation of dead fall from the cliffside path and rescue at least ten separate lines from obscurity. A grizzled veteran of the the NS climbing scene even said it was ‘our most successful clean and climb ever.’ Here’s a list of the weekend’s activity:

Cleaning:

  • Upper North Buttress
  • Attack of the Killer Hummingbird
  • Main Line (top two pitches)
  • Blind Man’s Bluff
  • Banjo Crack
  • Conan
  • The Lost Hurrah
  • Point of View
  • Skinny Dipping
  • Chimney

Bolting***:

  • Chain anchors added to the Meat Grinder Rappel
  • Chain anchors added to the top of Up Over Down Under and Slipline
  • Second bolt and ring were added to the existing single ring on the Lunch Bucket Ledge
  • Anchors for Deep Throat were relocated to the top of the cliff and a suspicious bolt was removed from the previous top anchor
  • At least three new sport lines were bolted (more details to come in a separate post)

What this means for you is that a large number of moderate, enjoyable routes are now much more accessible so let’s everyone dust off our cams, nuts and draws and get on some of the fantastic climbing at Mainface!

 

Mark Maasy - getting dirty to get clean

Mark Maasy – getting dirty to get clean (photo: Todd Foster)

 

Many thanks to our volunteers for making this such a successful event and to our sponsors The Trail Shop and Highland Drive Storehouse for keeping us well-supplied and rolling in sausages throughout the weekend.

 

***Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. Fixed hardware is to be used at your own risk. Climb Nova Scotia and its volunteers accept no responsibility and make no assurances about the quality or reliability of any anchors or fixed gear. Please do not toprope through fixed anchors. If you aren’t sure how to rig a safe anchor, don’t do it. Don’t let someone rig anchors for you if there is any question of their competence. Read John Long’s “Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition”, practice at home, ask questions, and understand the limitations of your equipment.CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. ACCIDENTS HAPPEN AND YOU COULD DIE OR KILL SOMEONE ELSE. GRAVITY IS UNFORGIVING.

 

Ice Fest 2014 Recap

July 10th, 2014

Remember when you thought the 2013-2014 Polar Vortex™ would never end? While most normal people were cursing six straight months of awful, wet, subzero conditions that kept them inside dusty climbing gyms and away from their bouldering projects, some folks were actually happy about the snow and ice.

Photo stolen from Miles McGehee. This pillar was brand new this year and still awaits a first free ascent.

Photo stolen from Miles McGehee. This pillar was brand new this year and still awaits a first free ascent.

Ice Fest 2014 was another huge success, with more than 30 participants out for a beautiful day on the Fundy Shore. Despite the best efforts of Matt and Derek to hurt themselves by taking massive whippers onto ice screws on lead, everyone finished the day safe and sound. Thanks to everyone who came out!

Photo stolen from Miles McGehee. This pillar was brand new this year and still awaits a first free ascent.

Photo stolen from Miles McGehee. This pillar was brand new this year and still awaits a first free ascent.

Boulderfest 2014 tickets – SOLD OUT

July 3rd, 2014

Boulderfest tickets are SOLD OUT available now, while supplies last. $55 includes a 1-year membership to Climb Nova Scotia. If you already have a membership we will add a year to your account automatically.

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Boulderfest 2014 tickets are SOLD OUT! Thanks to everyone who bought a ticket – it’s gonna be a blast. If you missed out, consider posting on the Climb Nova Scotia Facebook wall in case someone needs to sell their ticket. See you on the island!

Please read the Frequently Asked Questions below before you email us.

Climb Nova Scotia will not respond to questions that are answered below.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Can you hold a ticket for me?
A: No, sorry.

Q: When is Boulderfest?
A: August 2nd & 3rd 2014. If it rains, the event might be pushed back a day to Aug 3rd & Aug 4th (which is a holiday Monday)

Q: Where is Boulderfest?
A: Boulderfest is held on Dover Island, 1km offshore from West Dover, Nova Scotia, Canada, which is in North America, which is on Earth. Driving directions from Halifax, Nova Scotia are here.

Q: What do I get for my weekend pass ticket fee?
A: Transportation to and from Dover Island, parking on the mainland, dinner on Saturday night, coffee and breakfast on Sunday morning, an event t-shirt and goodie bag, the chance to win lots of awesome prizes, and the sickest bouldering you’ve ever seen

Q: Will you mail me a physical ticket before the event?
A: No. We will have a list of Boulderfest ticket holders on the day of the event and we will give you an event wristband before you get on the boat. The Trail Shop and Paypal will each issue you with a receipt at the point of purchase – keep this and consider bringing a copy with you to the event.

Q: Why do I need an event wristband?
A: All non-competitive prize draws will be based on your wristband number. Don’t lose your wristband – it gets you food and the number on it will be used to draw for fantastic door prizes!

Q: What is not included?
A: You must bring your own water, climbing equipment, camping gear, snacks, camera, and appropriate clothing. A full list of suggested supplies will be emailed to you before the event if you buy a ticket.

Q: How many tickets are available for the weekend?
A: Less than 100. Dover Island is a fragile ecosystem and too many people out there at one time can cause irreparable damage to the flora and fauna.

Q: Can I bring my dog and some glass bottles to Boulderfest?
A: No. Dogs are not permitted at Boulderfest. Please do not bring glass bottles to Boulderfest, you will be asked to leave them on the mainland.

Q: I am under the age of 18, can I still come to Boulderfest?
A: Minors must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. Each attending parent must also purchase a ticket in order to accompany their child. This requirement is for the safety and enjoyment of all participants and is not negotiable.

Q: What if I buy a ticket and then don’t want it anymore?
A: There will be NO REFUNDS on Boulderfest tickets UNLESS THE EVENT IS CANCELED. You may sell your ticket to someone else as long as you notify Climb Nova Scotia who you have sold it to so we can email them event details. The person you sell it to will get the t-shirt size you ordered.

Q: Where can I sell or buy an unwanted ticket?
A: CNS suggests using the climbeasterncanada.com forums to sell or buy unwanted tickets, or try posting on the Climb Nova Scotia Facebook wall. Please remember to let CNS know when tickets are bought or sold so that the ticket-holder’s name and email makes it onto our list.

Q: I don’t have a credit card, how can I buy a ticket?
A: Paypal can bill your bank account directly; a credit card is not required. If you don’t trust the banks and keep all of your money under your mattress, you will need to put on your tinfoil anti-mindcontrol hat and go to the Trail Shop in Halifax to pay with cash.

Q: Isn’t this climbing stuff dangerous?
A: Yes, it certainly can be. You are responsible for your own safety while on Dover. All participants will be required to sign a waiver on the day of the event before being allowed on the island. You can read the waiver ahead of time here.

Bolts on bolts

July 1st, 2014

Climb Nova Scotia made a major purchase of hardware this year. Thanks to amazing one-time prices offered by MEC and Grand Wall Equipment via the Trail Shop we’ve got a nice supply of bolts and hangers for the next few seasons. We anticipate continuing to support a core group of long-time developers as they selflessly bring us more rad new routes year after year.

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face Photo by Todd Foster

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face
Photo by Todd Foster

As well, CNS is refitting classic routes with modern, safe hardware and continuing our efforts to standardize anchors across the province by installing rappel rings to replace many tree anchors. This ethic is standard around the world at many popular climbing destinations and is endorsed by Climb Nova Scotia as the best way to minimize long-term impacts of successive generations of climbers.

Three sets of stainless steel rappel ring anchors were installed at First Face in May 2014. They are located at the top of Black Diamond on the far right of the cliff, above the ledge for Mea Culpa/LA/Slave to Fashion in the center, and at the top of Anniversary Waltz on the far left. These new anchors allow safe and convenient rappels with easy pulls.

New development continues at the GSpot sport crag and an update to the now-outdated 2010 topo is forthcoming this season. Get out there and try the new lines!

In tandem with these projects, trail maintenance remains a priority for us as a method to reduce erosion and confine our impacts to a smaller area around the crags. If you want to help with any of these initiatives feel free to contact us at climbnovascotia@gmail.com

Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. Fixed hardware is to be used at your own risk. Climb Nova Scotia and its volunteers accept no responsibility and make no assurances about the quality or reliability of any anchors or fixed gear. Please do not toprope through fixed anchors. If you aren’t sure how to rig a safe anchor, don’t do it. Don’t let someone rig anchors for you if there is any question of their competence. Read John Long’s “Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition”, practice at home, ask questions, and understand the limitations of your equipment. CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. ACCIDENTS HAPPEN AND YOU COULD DIE OR KILL SOMEONE ELSE. GRAVITY IS UNFORGIVING.

Boulderfest 2014 early bird tickets on sale Monday June 30 2014 at Trail Shop

June 25th, 2014

Boulderfest 2014 early bird tickets on sale Monday June 30 2014 at Trail Shop in Halifax at 9am!

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Online ticket sales begin Thursday, July 3rd at 9am Halifax time, right here at climbnovascotia.ca

 

Tickets are non-refundable unless the event is cancelled.

Main Face Clean and Climb – June 21-22 2014

June 6th, 2014

Climb Nova Scotia will be holding a Clean and Climb event at Main Face on the Summer Solstice weekend.  We have rented the cabin from 10:30am Saturday, June 21st to Sunday, June 22nd and we want YOU to come on out and lend a hand.

RSVP to climbnovascotia@gmail.com if you are planning on attending so we have an idea how many folks will be there. Come for an afternoon or bring a tent and stay the whole weekend. CNS will rig fixed lines for scrubbing and have limited brushes and personal protective gear available (so please bring your own work gloves, wire brushes, eye protection, and helmets if you have them).

 

With your help, some Main Face line could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission from https://sponsormeow.wordpress.com - Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

With your help, one of Main Face’s forgotten gems could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission – Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

Like many other rope climbing areas in Nova Scotia, Main Face ‘s classic lines see enough traffic to keep them clean, while other routes need a helping hand every few years. Come discover your new favorite route and tidy it up so other folks will climb it and keep it clean. Crusty trad climber volunteers will be on hand to help you navigate the cliff. Many hands make light work, so the more the merrier. There might even be time for climbing our freshly cleaned lines afterward!

 

CNS log book at GSpot

June 2nd, 2014

Nova Scotia’s newest and most popular climbing area, the GSpot sport crag in Musquodoboit, has been many climbers’ first introduction to outdoor rope routes over the last few years. Climb Nova Scotia wants to know more about how this crag is being used and by whom. Help us help you by signing in each and every time you visit the crag.

CNS logbook under Totally Industrial at Gspot. Please sign in!

CNS logbook under Totally Industrial at Gspot. Please sign in!

We have installed a sign-in book at the bottom of Totally Industrial at the top of the main trail in to the crag. Please take a few moments to sign in with your name, the date, and your projects for the day. Feel free to leave us some comments as well and let us know what you think of the GSpot!