Clean and Climb – Operation Mainface

July 16th, 2014

Climb Nova Scotia’s annual Clean and Climb took place at Mainface this year. Mainface, our largest and tallest crag, had fallen back to nature over the last few years as young whippersnapper crags like GSpot, Sorrows End and Columbus Wall started getting more attention. Like all fads, however, what’s old is new again and Mainface is what’s hot for 2014.

Our dedicated team of almost 20 volunteers led the charge with two days of scrubbing, shovelling, chain sawing and trundling. We were able to clear an accumulation of dead fall from the cliffside path and rescue at least ten separate lines from obscurity. A grizzled veteran of the the NS climbing scene even said it was ‘our most successful clean and climb ever.’ Here’s a list of the weekend’s activity:

Cleaning:

  • Upper North Buttress
  • Attack of the Killer Hummingbird
  • Main Line (top two pitches)
  • Blind Man’s Bluff
  • Banjo Crack
  • Conan
  • The Lost Hurrah
  • Point of View
  • Skinny Dipping
  • Chimney

Bolting***:

  • Chain anchors added to the Meat Grinder Rappel
  • Chain anchors added to the top of Up Over Down Under and Slipline
  • Second bolt and ring were added to the existing single ring on the Lunch Bucket Ledge
  • Anchors for Deep Throat were relocated to the top of the cliff and a suspicious bolt was removed from the previous top anchor
  • At least three new sport lines were bolted (more details to come in a separate post)

What this means for you is that a large number of moderate, enjoyable routes are now much more accessible so let’s everyone dust off our cams, nuts and draws and get on some of the fantastic climbing at Mainface!

 

Mark Maasy - getting dirty to get clean

Mark Maasy – getting dirty to get clean (photo: Todd Foster)

 

Many thanks to our volunteers for making this such a successful event and to our sponsors The Trail Shop and Highland Drive Storehouse for keeping us well-supplied and rolling in sausages throughout the weekend.

 

***Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. Fixed hardware is to be used at your own risk. Climb Nova Scotia and its volunteers accept no responsibility and make no assurances about the quality or reliability of any anchors or fixed gear. Please do not toprope through fixed anchors. If you aren’t sure how to rig a safe anchor, don’t do it. Don’t let someone rig anchors for you if there is any question of their competence. Read John Long’s “Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition”, practice at home, ask questions, and understand the limitations of your equipment.CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. ACCIDENTS HAPPEN AND YOU COULD DIE OR KILL SOMEONE ELSE. GRAVITY IS UNFORGIVING.

 

Ice Fest 2014 Recap

July 10th, 2014

Remember when you thought the 2013-2014 Polar Vortex™ would never end? While most normal people were cursing six straight months of awful, wet, subzero conditions that kept them inside dusty climbing gyms and away from their bouldering projects, some folks were actually happy about the snow and ice.

Photo stolen from Miles McGehee. This pillar was brand new this year and still awaits a first free ascent.

Photo stolen from Miles McGehee. This pillar was brand new this year and still awaits a first free ascent.

Ice Fest 2014 was another huge success, with more than 30 participants out for a beautiful day on the Fundy Shore. Despite the best efforts of Matt and Derek to hurt themselves by taking massive whippers onto ice screws on lead, everyone finished the day safe and sound. Thanks to everyone who came out!

Photo stolen from Miles McGehee. This pillar was brand new this year and still awaits a first free ascent.

Photo stolen from Miles McGehee. This pillar was brand new this year and still awaits a first free ascent.

Boulderfest 2014 tickets – SOLD OUT

July 3rd, 2014

Boulderfest tickets are SOLD OUT available now, while supplies last. $55 includes a 1-year membership to Climb Nova Scotia. If you already have a membership we will add a year to your account automatically.

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Boulderfest 2014 tickets are SOLD OUT! Thanks to everyone who bought a ticket – it’s gonna be a blast. If you missed out, consider posting on the Climb Nova Scotia Facebook wall in case someone needs to sell their ticket. See you on the island!

Please read the Frequently Asked Questions below before you email us.

Climb Nova Scotia will not respond to questions that are answered below.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Can you hold a ticket for me?
A: No, sorry.

Q: When is Boulderfest?
A: August 2nd & 3rd 2014. If it rains, the event might be pushed back a day to Aug 3rd & Aug 4th (which is a holiday Monday)

Q: Where is Boulderfest?
A: Boulderfest is held on Dover Island, 1km offshore from West Dover, Nova Scotia, Canada, which is in North America, which is on Earth. Driving directions from Halifax, Nova Scotia are here.

Q: What do I get for my weekend pass ticket fee?
A: Transportation to and from Dover Island, parking on the mainland, dinner on Saturday night, coffee and breakfast on Sunday morning, an event t-shirt and goodie bag, the chance to win lots of awesome prizes, and the sickest bouldering you’ve ever seen

Q: Will you mail me a physical ticket before the event?
A: No. We will have a list of Boulderfest ticket holders on the day of the event and we will give you an event wristband before you get on the boat. The Trail Shop and Paypal will each issue you with a receipt at the point of purchase – keep this and consider bringing a copy with you to the event.

Q: Why do I need an event wristband?
A: All non-competitive prize draws will be based on your wristband number. Don’t lose your wristband – it gets you food and the number on it will be used to draw for fantastic door prizes!

Q: What is not included?
A: You must bring your own water, climbing equipment, camping gear, snacks, camera, and appropriate clothing. A full list of suggested supplies will be emailed to you before the event if you buy a ticket.

Q: How many tickets are available for the weekend?
A: Less than 100. Dover Island is a fragile ecosystem and too many people out there at one time can cause irreparable damage to the flora and fauna.

Q: Can I bring my dog and some glass bottles to Boulderfest?
A: No. Dogs are not permitted at Boulderfest. Please do not bring glass bottles to Boulderfest, you will be asked to leave them on the mainland.

Q: I am under the age of 18, can I still come to Boulderfest?
A: Minors must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. Each attending parent must also purchase a ticket in order to accompany their child. This requirement is for the safety and enjoyment of all participants and is not negotiable.

Q: What if I buy a ticket and then don’t want it anymore?
A: There will be NO REFUNDS on Boulderfest tickets UNLESS THE EVENT IS CANCELED. You may sell your ticket to someone else as long as you notify Climb Nova Scotia who you have sold it to so we can email them event details. The person you sell it to will get the t-shirt size you ordered.

Q: Where can I sell or buy an unwanted ticket?
A: CNS suggests using the climbeasterncanada.com forums to sell or buy unwanted tickets, or try posting on the Climb Nova Scotia Facebook wall. Please remember to let CNS know when tickets are bought or sold so that the ticket-holder’s name and email makes it onto our list.

Q: I don’t have a credit card, how can I buy a ticket?
A: Paypal can bill your bank account directly; a credit card is not required. If you don’t trust the banks and keep all of your money under your mattress, you will need to put on your tinfoil anti-mindcontrol hat and go to the Trail Shop in Halifax to pay with cash.

Q: Isn’t this climbing stuff dangerous?
A: Yes, it certainly can be. You are responsible for your own safety while on Dover. All participants will be required to sign a waiver on the day of the event before being allowed on the island. You can read the waiver ahead of time here.

Bolts on bolts

July 1st, 2014

Climb Nova Scotia made a major purchase of hardware this year. Thanks to amazing one-time prices offered by MEC and Grand Wall Equipment via the Trail Shop we’ve got a nice supply of bolts and hangers for the next few seasons. We anticipate continuing to support a core group of long-time developers as they selflessly bring us more rad new routes year after year.

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face Photo by Todd Foster

Vintage angle-iron bolt at Main Face
Photo by Todd Foster

As well, CNS is refitting classic routes with modern, safe hardware and continuing our efforts to standardize anchors across the province by installing rappel rings to replace many tree anchors. This ethic is standard around the world at many popular climbing destinations and is endorsed by Climb Nova Scotia as the best way to minimize long-term impacts of successive generations of climbers.

Three sets of stainless steel rappel ring anchors were installed at First Face in May 2014. They are located at the top of Black Diamond on the far right of the cliff, above the ledge for Mea Culpa/LA/Slave to Fashion in the center, and at the top of Anniversary Waltz on the far left. These new anchors allow safe and convenient rappels with easy pulls.

New development continues at the GSpot sport crag and an update to the now-outdated 2010 topo is forthcoming this season. Get out there and try the new lines!

In tandem with these projects, trail maintenance remains a priority for us as a method to reduce erosion and confine our impacts to a smaller area around the crags. If you want to help with any of these initiatives feel free to contact us at climbnovascotia@gmail.com

Disclaimer: CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. Fixed hardware is to be used at your own risk. Climb Nova Scotia and its volunteers accept no responsibility and make no assurances about the quality or reliability of any anchors or fixed gear. Please do not toprope through fixed anchors. If you aren’t sure how to rig a safe anchor, don’t do it. Don’t let someone rig anchors for you if there is any question of their competence. Read John Long’s “Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition”, practice at home, ask questions, and understand the limitations of your equipment. CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. ACCIDENTS HAPPEN AND YOU COULD DIE OR KILL SOMEONE ELSE. GRAVITY IS UNFORGIVING.

Boulderfest 2014 early bird tickets on sale Monday June 30 2014 at Trail Shop

June 25th, 2014

Boulderfest 2014 early bird tickets on sale Monday June 30 2014 at Trail Shop in Halifax at 9am!

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Background photo by Ruby Photography, used without permission but with great gratitude.

Online ticket sales begin Thursday, July 3rd at 9am Halifax time, right here at climbnovascotia.ca

 

Tickets are non-refundable unless the event is cancelled.

Main Face Clean and Climb – June 21-22 2014

June 6th, 2014

Climb Nova Scotia will be holding a Clean and Climb event at Main Face on the Summer Solstice weekend.  We have rented the cabin from 10:30am Saturday, June 21st to Sunday, June 22nd and we want YOU to come on out and lend a hand.

RSVP to climbnovascotia@gmail.com if you are planning on attending so we have an idea how many folks will be there. Come for an afternoon or bring a tent and stay the whole weekend. CNS will rig fixed lines for scrubbing and have limited brushes and personal protective gear available (so please bring your own work gloves, wire brushes, eye protection, and helmets if you have them).

 

With your help, some Main Face line could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission from https://sponsormeow.wordpress.com - Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

With your help, one of Main Face’s forgotten gems could get cleaned and climbed! (Photo by Roger Fage, used without permission – Gavin on 3D at Columbus Wall)

Like many other rope climbing areas in Nova Scotia, Main Face ‘s classic lines see enough traffic to keep them clean, while other routes need a helping hand every few years. Come discover your new favorite route and tidy it up so other folks will climb it and keep it clean. Crusty trad climber volunteers will be on hand to help you navigate the cliff. Many hands make light work, so the more the merrier. There might even be time for climbing our freshly cleaned lines afterward!

 

CNS log book at GSpot

June 2nd, 2014

Nova Scotia’s newest and most popular climbing area, the GSpot sport crag in Musquodoboit, has been many climbers’ first introduction to outdoor rope routes over the last few years. Climb Nova Scotia wants to know more about how this crag is being used and by whom. Help us help you by signing in each and every time you visit the crag.

CNS logbook under Totally Industrial at Gspot. Please sign in!

CNS logbook under Totally Industrial at Gspot. Please sign in!

We have installed a sign-in book at the bottom of Totally Industrial at the top of the main trail in to the crag. Please take a few moments to sign in with your name, the date, and your projects for the day. Feel free to leave us some comments as well and let us know what you think of the GSpot!

Climb Nova Scotia 2014 Annual General Meeting

May 27th, 2014

Climb Nova Scotia will hold its 2014 Annual General Meeting tomorrow, Wednesday May 28 at 7pm at the Trail Shop in Halifax on Quinpool Road. Come on out and hear what we accomplished in the last fiscal year and our upcoming plans. Attendees can also meet the candidates for the 2014/2015 executive and elect the new board. Following the AGM agenda, the Trail Shop is offering one hour of tax free shopping to CNS members in attendance for the meeting!

agm

Please note that the AGM is open to CNS members only. If you wish to attend but are not currently a member, please click here to purchase a membership now.

Main Face Trail Update

May 4th, 2014

After meeting someone working outside on the land just behind the house that you pass as you hike up the first big hill, climbers have been asked to use a side trail that cuts off into the woods just before where the little greenhouse was last season.

The trail is marked very well with flagging tape and has been cleared of most branches and trees. It takes you directly up to the top of that first large hill instead of cutting around it through an area that is now being used as a Sugar-bush. It re-joins the trail that has always been used just as it begins to head down the section that is always muddy and wet, especially now in case you were wondering.

Happy climbing!

mainface

Thursday Night Bouldering is back!!!

April 24th, 2014

Every Thursday climbers will meet at the Armdale Rotary in the parking lot in front of St. James Church at 6pm sharp!  From there climbers will carpool to the climbing area scheduled for that evening.

Climbers of all skill levels are welcome! This is a great way to discover new bouldering spots and get to know other climbers.

Make sure you wear appropriate footwear as you will likely get your feet swamped at least once.  A flashlight or headlamp is always handy as we sometimes hike out after dark.  Dress in comfortable, weather appropriate clothing and bring climbing shoes, chalk and a crash pad if you have them.  Be prepared to chip in for gas if you’re catching a ride with someone – it’s always appreciated.

May
8 – Club Night at MEC*
15 – Corn & Bung
22 – Nouveau Riche
29 – Joey Ramone/Holiday
June
5– Jessie’s Diner
12 – Prospect
19 – Chrystal Crescent
26 – Polly’s Cove
July
3 – Jungle and Gros Poisson
10 – Sheet Harbour
17 – Chebucto Head/Chebucto Foot/Duncan’s Cove
24 – Lake and Satellite/Asteroids
31 – Thoughtful Spot
August
17 – Doghouse/Scrappy
14 – Area 51/Scoop/Mega
21 – Porcupine Fortress
28 – Memorial/Eggs/Godzilla

*Club Night is a great way to meet other climbers and stock up on shoes, pads, chalk etc. before the Thursday Night Bouldering Series starts!

deals

*** NOTE: We understand these areas may not cater to everyone. Therefore, if it is necessary, we may change the destination without notice. Please try to be at the rotary before departure at 6:00pm so you are in the loop! ***