Climb Nova Scotia

ACCESS ISSUES

New Access to Grover

A new trail was found and flagged recently to provide access to Grover in Terrence Bay. This was work was done in response to the loss of access via the old route (mentioned in the Halifax Bouldering guidebook) which crossed private land. Please note, climbers are NOT PERMITTED to use the old access path by the rusty milk truck as it now has a house built on the middle of it.The new trail is completely on Crown land and is actually shorter by about 300m than the old way. Access the new trail by parking in the usual Grover pullout, then walking north for about 50 m back toward Lower Prospect Road where you just came from.  The trailhead is intentionally subtle and begins with what looks like an old ATV trail. The first 10m of the trail is swampy and uncleared on purpose. Follow this new trail for 460m until you gain the granite ATV trail system on the other side of the lake and continue along the old route until you get to the river crossing at Quarry Lake as usual.

Although this is Crown land climbers should remember that climbing at Grover is a privilege not a right and we should keep a low profile.

Booking a boat to Dover Island

Effective March 1 2011 Norm Stone will no longer be operating boat service to Dover Island, although parking is still allowed at his house. Climbers interested in visiting Dover should now contact Clifton “Gizzell” Morash at 902-823-3037. Please be respectful of Gizzell’s time and effort. Give him proper notice of your planned trip and call him at least 3 days ahead of time. Leave a message if he does not answer. He will call you back.

The cost is now $20.00 per person, with a minimum boat charge of $80.00. That is, if you only have 3 people, the boat shall be $27.00 a head. If you have 4 people or more, the rate is $20.00 a head. Note that dogs are not permitted on the boat or on Norm’s property.

Norm and Gizzell have provided an unprecedented level of support to the climbing community for more than a decade. Be courteous and follow the above guidelines.

First Face

Climb Nova Scotia has been contacted by the owners of First Face crag. Apparently someone on Paces Lake Drive has complained to them that several times dozens of people have been seen trespassing on a neighbor’s property, camping out and making fires, and leaving litter and garbage behind. We have also been advised that neither the dockside nor the pullout parking spots are public, and in fact the entire road is private all the way to the highway.

The owners have requested that climbers do not park on Paces Lake Drive – park only on the side of the 357HWY and walk in, being careful to stay on the path along the water’s edge and away from the houses on Paces Lake Drive. The landowners expressed their satisfaction with their relationship with Climb Nova Scotia and do not have plans to revoke climbing privileges provided we respect their wishes.

I’m confident that the climbing community is not responsible for this disrespectful and boorish behavior, but that is beside the point. Likewise I know you will all continue to show respect for the people who are kind enough to allow us access to their land to enjoy climbing.

Stick to clear and designated trails and strive to Leave No Trace that you were there. Always pack out your own trash and any other rubbish you might find and note that there are no camping or fires permitted at First Face. Remember that climbing on private land is a privilege not a right. Please do not park on Paces Lake Drive when climbing at First Face.

***There has been a new trail cut that accesses the First Face Crag from the top.***

Mick Levin

Climb Nova Scotia President

Terrence Bay Woods Bouldering Area

Please note that bouldering is not permitted at the Terrence Bay Woods area (ie. Bloodflame, Half Dozen Donuts, Redbull, etc). You may still climb at the Inbangyang area just off Nice View Drive at the head of the ATV trail.

Craig Stamp

Climb Nova Scotia Access Chair

Occupiers’ Liability Act of Nova Scotia

This information was NOT written by a lawyer and is NOT legal advice.

The legal rights and liabilities of those who own climbing areas are covered (at least in part) under the Occupier’s Liability Act of Nova Scotia which was created in 1996. The entire statute is available online here. One of the primary reasons landowners restrict access to climbing areas is the worry that they would be somehow liable if a climber got hurt while on their property, but thankfully the Occupiers’ Liability Act S.N.S. seems to specifically preclude this possibility under section 5(1) Willing Assumption of Risk and section 6(1) Deemed willing assumption of risk subsections b and c.

Liability under Canadian law revolves around the concept of Duty of Care, which (very roughly) means that every person is obligated to try to avoid causing harm to other people. The degree of effort they must expend on ensuring that others do not come into harm depends on the particular connection between any two parties as well as what can be reasonably expected under a given set of circumstances. The duty of care owed between two strangers passing one another on the street is low, while the duty of care that a climbing guide owes her paying client is significantly higher. In Nova Scotia however, the duty of care owed by a landowner to a climber seems to be almost nonexistent.

The Occupiers’ Liability Act S.N.S section 5(1) Willing Assumption of Risk states that:

The duty of care created by subsection 4(1) does not apply in respect of risks willingly assumed by the person who enters on the premises but, in that case, the occupier owes a duty to the person not to create a danger with the deliberate intent of doing harm or damage to the person or property of that person and not to act with reckless disregard of the presence of the person or property of that person.*

Further, the Occupiers’ Liability Act S.N.S section 6(1) Deemed Willing Assumption of Risk states that:

When we as climbers go on someone else’s property free of charge for the purpose of climbing, we are effectively assuming full liability for our own safety. As long as the landowner does not intentionally tamper with existing climbing anchors or trundle rocks down onto climbers, any injury that a climber might suffer on someone else’s land is completely the climber’s responsibility. The landowner holds no liability nor any special duty of care to the climbers.

That said, the Occupiers’ Liability Act does not give climbers permission to trespass, nor does it give us the “right to climb” on someone else’s property. Be careful, be respectful, clean up after yourself, pack out any garbage you find, and leave no trace you were there. Accidents happen and people can get hurt or killed because climbing is dangerous. When you climb, remember that you alone assume all responsibility.

CLIMBING AREAS IN NOVA SCOTIA

This page is under construction. It will eventually host GPS coordinates for every known climbing area in Nova Scotia. Until then, Bouldering areas are green, Ice climbing is blue, and Rope crags are red.

View

Climbing areas in Nova Scotia in a larger map

Land Of Confuion Bouldering

For a complete guide of trail systems, GPS coordinates and area descriptions of the LOC, click here.

New Bouldering Guide to Musquodoboit!

Big props to local hardman Luke Buxton for his time and effort into creating a much anticipated guidebook to Musquodoboit Bouldering!

GSpot Topo

GSpot topo

The G Spot is a mostly-sport crag in Mosquodoboit, visible from the 357 HWY on your right about 1.5km past the RCMP station. Turn right across the bridge at Bayers Mill Road and drive to the dead end where it meets the Rails To Trails path. Walk across the path and into the woods along a narrow logging road for ~10 minutes, crossing a new wooden bridge and passing a pond on your right until you see a narrow path on your right marked by a short rock cairn. Head down this path and break left on a narrower uphill trail opposite the hunting blind.

G Spot Routes to date Oct 14th 2010 – Route descriptions start from far left of crag

0.5. Knowledge Enema 5.8 Trad 13m 2 bolt anchor FFA M. Levin, A. Nette

Stem and jam the featured dihedral corner on the left of Cocksure. Excellent movements and good gear.

0.75. Cocksure 5.7 Sport 13m 2 bolt anchor FFA M. Levin, T.Foster

Follow thin rails up steep face to gain a lower angle arete with fun holds. Starts 5m left of Bye Bye Beep.

1.Bye Bye Beep 5.6 Sport 20m 2 Bolt anchor FFA.T.Foster

Work your way up big holds and cracks to a 2 bolt anchor and lower off. Great first lead for the aspiring sport climber.

2.To Beep or not to Beep 5.10d Sport 30m 2 bolt anchor FA.S.Therien

This route starts on the fractured face right of route #1 climbs up to dripping wet gash the follows bolts up and right.

3.Slice and Dice 5.10a Trad 30m 2 bolt anchor FFA S.Therien,D.Willsie

Stellar climbing up a slightly overhung dihedral on good holds to a terrifying block held in place by magic. Follow crack to roof,bust right and finish up the perfect corner. Great gear, awesome positions, wild finish. Named after first ascensionist nearly severed tip off thumb cleaning the route and the core shot his rap line took from a razor sharp block falling on it.

3.5 Teenage Burnout 5.9 Sport FFA T.Foster.

Pull mini roof to gain sidepulls, delicate climbing leads to two bolt anchor.

4.Exsanguination 5.10b Trad 20m. FFA S.Launcelot,M.Loydd

Scramble up to a bushy ledge then blast off up the crack. Take the pain till the crack ends then bust left to same corner finish as #3.

5.Parade of Whores 5.10 Sport 30m FFA S.Therien, T.Foster

A fun sport route that starts easy and just gets harder and harder til the bitter end.

This route takes you to the big treed ledge and the Upper Tier. Anchor only has 1 single rap bolt due to lack of battery power.

Upper Tier

6. Viva Las Vages 5.11+ Sport 15m FFA.J.Bayne aka DJ DYNO

DJ DYNO’S going away present to Nova Scotia a 5 bolt technical crimpfest of pain done in a heavy mist Dig it!

7.Throat Punched 5.10b Trad 15m FA S.Therien

Heinous wide crack with major pump factor. Beware of the guillotine like chockstone midway up.

Hollywood Bowl

***Warning*** These routes start off a bushy ledge and the belay is 1 smaller tree. A lead fall near the start of any of these routes could result in a factor 2 fall and certain injury or worse.

7.5  The Old In-and-Out (aka Baiting Bambi) 5.8 Sport 20m FFA  S. Therien, T. Foster

Follow bolts up a scooped slab between two crack systems, several meters left of the blank overhang under Holloywood Bowl.

8.Shes got a dripping crack 5.6 Trad 15mTree anchor FFA D.Willsie, S.Therien

Climb the nice ramp plugging gear into the crack. A little bit of seepage at the bottom of the crack but a fun easy lead. This climb takes you up into the Hollywood Bowl a nice little wall with 3 routes.

The next 3 routes are in the Bowl.

9.Pimp My Rack 5.10+ Trad FFA N.Smith,T.Foster

This line follows weakness up left side of wall.

10. Glamor Junkie 5.11+ Sport FFA N.Smith

Spicy climbing past 4 bolts ouch!

11.Melrose Place 5.10 Trad FFA N.Smith,T.Foster

Follow weakness up right side of wall.

12.You’re So Hollywood 5.9+ mixed 20m FFA.T.Foster, N.Smith

Mixed climbing leads to a fun roof encounter.

The next 2 lines are 2 of Nova Scotia’s longest routes so make sure you have a 60m rope and at least 14 draws.

13.Flake’n on the Tard 5.9 Sport 55m 2 bolt anchor FFA.S.Therien,T.Foster

Long route with some serious rope drag, sort of like 3 mini routes. (Could even be done in 2 mini pitches. Bring a few big hexes/nuts) Wild.

14.Phat Tuesday 5.9+ Sport 50m 2 bolt anchor FFA.T.Foster,S.Therien.

Hard slabbing leads to amazing climbing thru some mini roofs.Beware rope drag on this one. One of the regions finest lines with great views and positions.

Rapping from the anchors will bring you to a ledge where #15 starts and where you can also walk off.

15.Belly Button Window 5.10b Sport 40m shares anchor with #14. FFA S.Therien.

Semi steep climbing leads to some slab and then a little alpine adventure.

Basecamp

#16-#17 are found right where the approach trail hits the wall

16.Skanks for the Memories 5.8 Sport 20m FFA T.Foster

This route is supposed to be good but needs some major cleaning still.

17.Totally industrial Sport 5.11 20m FFA.N.Smith

Vertical climbing leads to a roof …that’s right I said it a roof DO IT!